E-La Paz, endaweni engaphezu kwamamitha angu-3 600 ngaphezu kogu lolwandle, ukuphila kwansuku zonke kuhlangana nemikhuba nezinkolelo zokhokho ezisalokhu ziphila; kule mpambana-mgwaqo kukhona iMakethe edumile yabathakathi. Nakhu I-Pachamama, i-yatiris kanye nezigqila Babelana ngamashalofu nemisebenzi yezandla, umculo wase-Andean nemikhiqizo enuka inhlaka, irue nempepho.
Labo abaphuma ngenxa yelukuluku lokufuna ukwazi bahamba bezizwa sengathi bangene emhlabeni ofanayo lapho okungcwele nokungcolile kuhlangene ngaphandle kokungabaza. Phakathi kwama-cobblestone alleys nezitolo ezincane, uzobona amaqabunga e-coca, i-sullus (ama-llama nama-alpaca fetus), izimpushana zenhlanhla, amakhandlela othando, onodoli bakashukela, ama-cologne “esimangaliso” kanye nenqwaba yamakhambi esintu athembisa yonke into kusukela ekukhangeni umsebenzi kuya ekugwemeni umona.
Ikuphi le makethe futhi injani?
I-Witches' Market ithatha imigwaqo eminingana esikhungweni esingokomlando, eduze kakhulu ne-Basilica yaseSan Francisco, evelele ngokukhethekile emqanseni. I-Linares Street nasezindaweni ezizungezile iSanta Cruz, uMelchor Jiménez, Sagárnaga kanye ne-Illampu. Phakathi kwamahostela, izindawo zokudlela kanye nezitolo ezincane zokudla, kuvula umhubhe wasemadolobheni lapho izivakashi kanye nama-paceños anqamula izindlela ngaphandle kokushesha, nojosaka, amakhamera noma izikhwama zokuthenga.
Kunikezwa izinkambo eziqondisiwe, ezivame ukuphelela e-Coca Museum, nakuba indawo yangakubo ingahlali kuphela kwezokuvakasha: omakhelwane bazungeza lapho benza imisebenzi, chifleras (abathengisi bemifino) ngakho konke ukuhlakanipha kokuhweba kwabo futhi, cishe i-incognito, i-yatiris, labo "ababaziyo" abahamba benganakwa phakathi kwabantu.
Kuthiwa igama lale makethe lalithandwa yizivakashi, kodwa ukuhweba kwakunesikhathi eside ngaphambi kwalokho. Phakathi kwezindawo zokudayisa ezimazombezombe, kuvela ubuhle obushubile, kwesinye isikhathi obuhlaza, okuthi kweminye imingcele ku-grotesque nakwabanye bube. indawo ephilayo yenkolo yama-AndeanI-La Paz phela idolobha elixoxisana nonkulunkulu balo ngenkathi lamukela izivakashi zalo ngezandla ezimhlophe.
Emacaleni okubonisa uzobona ukuhlukahluka kangangokuthi kunzima ukukuthatha konke ngokubuka nje: kuneziphambano, izintombi zokhuni kanye neziphambano zase-Andean eceleni kweziphazamiso ezenziwe ngembewu ye-huayruro; i-syncretism iyabonakala futhi ilandisa ngendaba yamakhulu eminyaka yokuzalanisa ngokomoya.
Abantu abaningi bendawo bathi beza lapha ukuzo-oda ukufundwa kwe-cocaine noma ukuthenga izinto zokubusisa ukuvulwa kwebhizinisi, ukuqala kwephrojekthi, noma ukuzocela ukuvikelwa. "Kukhona yonke into lapha, yonke into," bayokutshela ngokuziqhenya njengoba bekubonisa indawo. I-Palo Santo, impepho yomumo nemibala eyinkulungwane noma uboya begusha be-llama bulungele ukunikela.
Ongakubona nokuthi yini ongayithenga: i-inventory ebalulekile
Uma kukhona okuchaza iMakethe Yabathakathi, ikhathalogi yayo engapheli. Phakathi kwezinto ezigqama kakhulu yilezi i-sullus (ama-fetus angama-camelid), amaqabunga e-coca kanye "namatafula" asevele esenzelwe iminikelo, kodwa uhlu luhamba phambili kakhulu: ama-rue gels, ama-colognes ukuheha imali, amabhotela okukhula kwezinwele, izimpushana ngokumelene neso elibi, izibalo ze-wax zeziphonso zothando, amakhandlela ukubiza izithandwa, kanye nezimbiza zenhlanhla noma umsebenzi.
Kanye nezinto zemicikilisho, kukhona nemisebenzi eminingi yezandla yase-Andean nezinto zomculo. Uzobona ama-charango, ama-maracas, imitshingo, nezinti zemvula; namasongo, imigexo namacici ehlotshiswe ngembewu ye-huayruro; nemifanekiso emincane yezimfudu (impilo ende), amaxoxo (imali), izikhova (ukuhlakanipha), ama-condor (uhambo oluhle), noma ama-puma (umsebenzi omusha). Iwumkhathi ongokomfanekiso oguqulwe waba into.
Emkhakheni wemikhiqizo "yothando" nenamandla, kukhona abathengisi bangempela. Amafasitela ezitolo agcwele izinsipho namakha anemiyalezo eqondile ezokwenza abantu abangaphezu koyedwa bamamatheke: Woza Kimi Insipho, AmaPerfume Abesilisa Abayisi-7, Burning Nights, Enamorador “Ngilandele, Ngilandele…”, noma i-Jabón Gozar yakudala. Abanye bathembisa ubungqabavu, abanye bayingcweti yothando; wonke abonisa amabhokisi anemibala ayizinganekwane zasemadolobheni ezimsulwa.
Ayintuli impepho, izinhlaka, uju, amafutha ekamela, uvolo, nemithi yokwelapha, ngokwesiko, esebenza ukuhlanza, ukubonga, ukwenza izicelo nokuvikela. Izimpushana ezisusa umona, izingxube ezinikeza amandla futhi amakhithi e-ch'alla aqedela umnikelo ohlanganisa imithi yamadlozi nemikhuba yansuku zonke.
Njengokungathi lokho akwanele, onodoli bakashukela nabo badayiswa ezinkingeni “ezinoshukela,” iziphambano nemimese ukubukeka kwemikhosi, kanye noboya beboya be-llama obusetshenziswa eminikelweni ethile. Ububanzi bubanzi kangangokuthi kungcono ukusheshe ubuze imibuzo ngokucophelela ukuze uqonde ukusetshenziswa ngakunye.
I-yatiris: "abazaziyo"
I-Yatiris yizibalo ezibalulekile emakethe. Bagqoka ngobuhlakani, ngezinye izikhathi nge izigqoko ezimnyama nama-chuspas (izikhwama zendabuko) eziqukethe amaqabunga e-coca, iziphambano, amaketanga, noma izithombe ezincane. Awahlukaniseki kalula; eqinisweni, ngokuvamile azinakwa phakathi kwamadokodo.
Ulwazi lwabo luhlanganisa izitshalo, izimpande, amatshe avela ezintabeni, nolimi lwamaphupho. Bayacatshangelwa abavikeli bomphakathi nabelulekiBenza ukuhlanza, benze amasiko, futhi ngaphezu kwakho konke, bafunde amaqabunga e-coca. Bendlala ingubo yokulala, bajikijele amaqabunga, futhi bahlaziye isimo sabo nokuxhumana ukuze baphendule imibuzo ethile futhi banikeze izexwayiso noma izincomo.
Abaningi bafunda ukuhweba kwabadala babo, futhi azikho izindaba ezivela kulabo abathi "babizwe" ngemibono, ngombani noma ngamaphupho anzimaNgombono wabo wezwe, baxoxa nama-achachila kanye nama-awichas (amadlozi okufundisa) ukuze bacele isiqondiso noma isivikelo.
Uma ufuna ukucela ukufundwa, cela ngenhlonipho. Ngokuvamile, uzotshelwa ukuthi ulinde i-yatiri ethembekile ukuthi ibuyele kokuthunyelwe, noma bazophakamisa uhlobo lokufunda. itafula noma umnikelo ezifanele kakhulu izidingo zakho (uthando, impilo, umsebenzi, ukuchuma noma ukuhlanzwa kwamandla).
Imikhuba, iminikelo nolimi lomlilo
U-August yinyanga enkulu kaMama woMhlaba; "Phakamani vula umlomo" ,basho ngesifenqo esihle nesinamandla. Ngalezo zinsuku, njengawo wonke unyaka, abantu bayazilungiselela izinkokhelo noma iminikelo ukucela, ukubonga, noma ukuletha ibhalansi. Amatafula angokwesiko aphakathi kwalezi zenzo: amaphakheji aklanywe ngokucophelela aqukethe amaswidi asesimweni sezindlu noma izinhliziyo, uvolo, amaqabunga e-coca, izinhlaka, izithelo, imbewu, uju, amafutha e-camelid, namanye “amaswidi” anemibala egcwele inhloso.
Okuyinkimbinkimbi kakhulu kungase kuhlanganise i-sullu (i-camelid fetus). Uma selimisiwe, itafula liboshwe ngentambo encane futhi lishiswe ngaphansi kweso elibukhali le-yatiri, elihumusha ukuvutha. Uma umlilo "udlula kahle," ibika lihle; phakathi nenqubo, kwenziwa isimemezelo. "jallalla", inkulumo yesiQuechua-Aymara ehlanganisa ithemba, umkhosi, nenhlanhla. Ekugcineni, amalahle nomlotha kuyagqitshwa ukuze kubuyiselwe emhlabeni lokho okungokwasemhlabeni.
Kunezinqubo eziqondile kakhulu ezixhunywe emisebenzini: ukwakhiwa kwendlu, isiko liyayala ngcwaba i-llama fetus enkulu ngaphansi kwesisekelo njengesicelo senhlanhla nokuvikelwa kwekhaya. Ezindabeni zomuntu siqu, i-sullus encane iyasetshenziswa futhi ishiswe, ngokuvamile i-coca ihlafunwa phakathi nesiko.
Mayelana nemvelaphi yale mibungu, abathengisi bagcizelela ukuthi baphuma ekuhushuleni izisu okungokwemvelo, ezinganeni ezingasindanga emakhazeni endaweni ephakeme, noma ezatholakala ezibelethweni zabesifazane abahlatshwe emadela. Ukulandisa okudumile kugcizelela ukuthi izilwane azibulawa Ngalokhu.
Kukhona nezinganekwane zasemadolobheni okunzima ukuziqinisekisa mayelana neminikelo yabantu kumaphrojekthi amakhulu wokwakha. Inguqulo ephindaphindwa kakhulu isitshela ngesikhathi lapho umuntu owayehlala emgwaqweni edakiwe futhi engcwatshwa ezisekelweni ukuze ashweleze emhlabeni. Kuyindaba engavumelekile futhi, uma bungekho ubufakazi, kuseyinganekwane. inganekwane yasendaweni abaningi abaye bayizwa “ngenzwabethi” ngaphandle kokuqinisekisa.
Izimpahla, izimiso zokuziphatha nezilawuli
UMkhandlu Kamasipala waseLa Paz umemezele iMakethe yabathakathi ngo-2019 njenge Amagugu Amasiko Angaphatheki ngokubaluleka kwayo njengendawo yolwazi neminikelo esekela umbono wezwe osekelwe e-Andes. Lokhu kuqashelwa kuhambisana nezimpikiswano ezithile ezivela ekuthengeni nasekudayiseni izilwane zasendle kanye nobungozi bezempilo obuhambisanayo.
Iziphathimandla zithole kwamanye amashalofu amalulwane, izibankwa, izidladla zempungushe noma amaxoxo, osekubangele ukuba kuthathwe izinyathelo eziqinile zokuvikela izinhlobonhlobo zezinto eziphilayo futhi kuliwe nokushushumbiswa kwabantu ngokungemthetho. Izincomo zezivakashi ezinomthwalo wemfanelo zicacile: gwema ukuzuza izilwane zasendle noma izingcezu zemvelaphi engabazekayo futhi ubeke phambili imisebenzi yezandla namatafula kuhlanganiswe nezingxenye ezivunyelwe.
Uma unentshisekelo yokuthengela othile, yenza ucwaningo lwakho kuqala: eminingi yale mikhiqizo inokusetshenziswa okukhethekile okungokomoya futhi Akuzona nje izikhumbuzoIminikelo inengqondo kumongo nalapho ihambisana neseluleko esifanele.
Amathiphu asebenzayo okuvakasha okunenhlonipho
Ngaphambi kokukhipha ikhamera yakho, hlala ubuza ukuthi ungakwazi yini ukuthatha izithombe zabantu, ama-altare, noma amasiko. Abanye bakhetha ibanga noma ukushaja ithiphu elincane; inhlonipho ivula iminyango nezingxoxo ezibalulekile. Uma uthatha izithombe, kwenze lokho ukude futhi ngaphandle kokuvimba indlela phakathi kwezitendi.
Xhumana nabathengisi kanye nama-yatiris ngelukuluku nokuthobeka. Abaningi bayakwazisa uma ubuza ukuthi "yini ukusetshenziswa kwento" noma "isetshenziswa kanjani." Lena yindlela oqonda ngayo i-logic yamathebula kanye nencazelo ye-amulet ngayinye.
Gqoka izicathulo ezinethezekile: zingamabhulokhi amaningana ubude, anemithambeka namatshe enziwe ngamatshe. Zama ukungabonisi amafoni aphezulu noma izikhwama ezinkulu; iyindawo ethule ngokujwayelekile, kodwa kukhona ama-pickpockets ngezikhathi ezithile, njengakunoma iyiphi indawo egcwele abantu.
Isikhathi esingcono kakhulu ngokuvamile siphakathi kuka-9:00 a.m. no-15:00 p.m., lapho kunomsebenzi owengeziwe nezitenda ezivuliwe. Izimpelasonto zingaba ncane ukuminyana kwezinye izindawo, nakuba zingashodi. amasiko nokufunda uma ubuza khona lapho.
Uma uthenga itafula noma umnikelo, cela ukuchazelwa isiko isinyathelo ngesinyathelo; abathengisi abaningi banikeza imiyalelo eqondile yokusetshenziswa noma bakubhekise ku-yatiri ethembekile ukuze uyiqedele.
Indlela yokufika lapho, amashejuli nokuthi yini ongayihlanganisa eduze
Imakethe iyindawo nje yokuphonsa itshe kude I-Basilica yaseSan Francisco kanye nemakethe ematasa yaseSagárnaga. Ungafika lapho ngezinyawo usuka ezindaweni eziningi zokuhlala edolobheni noma ngetekisi. I-Google Maps ikubeka ohlwini njengeMakethe Yabathakathi noma Imakethe Yabathakathi, futhi ukubuza noma yimuphi wendawo kuzokubeka emzileni olungile ngemizuzwana.
Kungumqondo omuhle ukuhlanganisa ukuvakasha kanye ne UMuzio de la Coca, okuhlanganisa ukusetshenziswa kweqabunga kwendabuko e-Andes. Uma ungathanda ukumba ujule, uhambo lokuhamba lwamahhala lwesikhungo somlando lukusiza ukuthi uqonde ukuvumelanisa kwezenkolo nomlando wedolobha ozungeze imakethe.
Uma uhlala endaweni ephakathi kweMakethe Yabathakathi kanye nePrado, uzoba nayo yonke into eduze: ezokuthutha, amabhange, izindawo zokudlela kanye nezithabathaba izakhiwo zamakoloni ukuze uhlole. Kuyindawo ekahle kakhulu yokuhamba ngeLa Paz.
Ukuvikeleka kwangempela: okufanele ukwazi
Isimo esifundeni semakethe ngokuvamile sithule kakhulu, ngisho nasebusuku, kodwa ungakuyeki ukuqaphela kwakho. Qaphela umkhonyovu wakudala otholwe endaweni yase-El Alto: amaphoyisa mbumbulu acela amaphepha bese uzama ukukuyisa emotweni engamakiwe. Ungangeni, futhi uthole indawo ephephile (isb., isiteshi semoto yekhebula) ukuze ushayele usizo.
Ungaphathi ipasipoti yakho yokuqala noma uyibonise emgwaqweni. Ungalibonisi nangaphakathi kwamatheminali amabhasi noma amathilomu amatasatasa. bheka izinto zakhoKunezimpawu nezixwayiso mayelana nokweba ezitolo okungosomathuba. Ngomqondo ophusile nokugwema ukubukisa, ukuzizwisa kwemakethe kuvamise ukujabulisa.
Siyaphikelela: ngezithombe zabantu noma ama-altare, cela imvume. Futhi uma uzizwa ungakhululekile endleleni enesizungu noma unganaki, phenduka ngaphandle kokucabanga kabili; intuition yakho futhi iyisiqondiso uma uhamba.
Isikhathi sokuhamba: izinyanga ezibalulekile nemibukiso
U-August yinyanga enkulu ye-Pachamama futhi imakethe igcwele amatafula, ama-resin, ne-sullus yeminikelo. Ezinsukwini ngaphambi kukaJanuwari 24, abantu abaningi bendawo beza bezothenga lokho abakudingayo I-Alasitas Fair, usuku lwezicelo nezithombe ezincane lapho ucela khona yonke into oyifunayo ngonyaka ozayo.
Ngaphezu kwalokho, ekhalendeni elingokwesiko ama-ch'allas enziwa ngezikhathi ezihlukene; kukhona okubhekiselwa kuzo emikhosini ngo-Okthoba, kanti eminye exhumene nemigubho noma ukuvuleka kwendlu noma imotoUma kwenzeka ulapho ngalezo zinsuku, umkhathi uba mkhulu kakhulu.
Nganoma yisiphi isikhathi sonyaka, imakethe igcina eyakho i-pulse, namakhasimende endawo efuna amakhambi emvelo (okuhlanganisa i-coca yokugula kokuphakama), Iziphazamiso ukuze uthole amandla amahle noma imininingwane elula yobuciko exoxa izindaba.
Ngaphandle kokugula okungase kuvuke i-sullus kanye namaxoxo omisiwe, ingqikithi yendawo isekutheni umphakathi waseLa Paz uqhubeka kanjani nokusebenzisa lezi zinsiza ukucela, ukubonga nokubonga. nakekela amaphrojekthi akho okubalulekile, kusukela ekuvuleni ibhizinisi kuye ekubusiseni ikhaya elisha.
IMakethe Yabathakathi igxile njengezinye izindawo ezimbalwa ingxube yokholo, isiko kanye nezohwebo echaza iLa Paz: umhume wentuthu yempepho, imibala kanye namazwi lapho i-Andean iphikelela futhi uzivumela ukuba athwetshulwe, ngenhlonipho, ngabahambi abanolwazi.
